Mexico
Nothing quite says lazy tourist quite like flying 6 hours across North America only to land in a hot, Mexican West Coast town surrounded by other, mainly white Canadians. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but thinking every second person was my Mom or Dad was pretty hilarious. It didn’t even occur to me until we landed in Mexico that the only thing I could say in Spanish was una cerveza por favor (one beer please). Let it be also be known that the only Spanish I learned when I was down there was una mass (one more).
I spent the first 4 days of our all inclusive trip feeling guilty about being a tourist. I have often suffered from tourist guilt, mainly because as a group, similar to mob mentality, tourists turn into a collection of loud, entitled, stupid, drunk morons. Even when I lived in England I would make fun of tourists…with my purely Canadian accent. But what I realized at this resort, different from other places I have travelled, the tourists were old and Canadian which made for a very quiet and friendly environment. There were few Americans, no Brits and very few young people so it never got out of hand. AKA on the first night we landed I went to bed at 9pm and was not missing much.
We had been warned about people selling time shares everywhere (and to this day don’t know what a timeshare is). When we landed and were being ushered through the airport they handed us to Jimmy Smits holding a map. Ultimately we thought we were being red flagged as tourists needing assistance on how to get to the hotel. After 10-15 minutes of speaking to Jimmy Smits and having 3 tequila shots with him we realized that he was a) trying to sell us something and b) we had missed our shuttle to the hotel. It was not so clear at first as he had a map in his hand and was circling and scribbling what we thought was just a nice, quick, understanding of the area by the Mexican tourist board or something. Also he was smooth and suave a la Jimmy Smits. But by the end we had promised to meet him so he could show us something or sell us a hotel or give us free tequila or something…My super human ability to either reproduce accents or my ability to translate them completely for others was lost in Mexico. I mainly had no idea what he was saying and the trifecta of Tequila shots had helped nothing. I had wished he had been wearing a Grandpa sweater and had referred to me as Mama and Alex as Mano. I feel if he had made me believe he was making the effort to be Jimmy Smits in Sons of Anarchy, we may have made more of an effort to meet him for his sales pitch.
We finally managed to get to our place via Taxi which Jimmy Smits somehow payed for. The Bell Boy (man) at our hotel was a great, slightly older guy, let’s call him Jimmy Smits, just kidding, his name was Renee. It was his second day which was fairly obvious because he could not find our room anywhere and kept profusely swearing which meant we were going to be best friends. After running down every hallway in the hotel villa, we found a staircase leading to our room number. We would learn the most from Renee over the next couple days, like how the restaurant never closed (it was closed when we got there) and how to find our room (close to impossible). Renee was great, he taught us about the mob hold on the tourism industry which protected us, much more than any of the workers there. He said if one of them were to steal from a tourist or touch them inappropriately, they would have to answer to the mob. You would disappear for awhile and then sometimes, return having had a 2 x 4 taken to your body repeatedly. I wondered about all the tourists there that must have known this and were turning an epically huge blind eye to the fact that by traveling here, we were all kind of supporting the mob. This trip sponsored by the Mexican Sopranos. But instead of waste management being the cover up business, that it was tourism. I was completely horrified and thought I may not be able to enjoy myself until we got to the beach and I found margaritas.
I remember as we were pulling up the our hotel I was explaining that our living quarters wasn’t exactly the Hilton. When the taxi stopped, he stopped at the Hilton and I thought, well thank you for that comedic accuracy of exemplifying precisely what I am saying. The entrance to the hotel was lined with giant golden potato sculptures with with faces that I wondered if Hilton had recently struck a deal with Mr. Potato Head and this was what the collaboration looked like. Or perhaps the Easter Islands hadn’t wanted them and randomly sent them to Mexico instead. We then realized we were staying in the little, old school villa right next to the giant Hilton towers. Our hotel was open air, bright orange, two levels and I believe one of the first hotels ever built in Puerta Vallarta. We concurred it was indeed old by the very pungent smell of mould in the rooms. It didn’t phase us too much, everything else seemed lovely.
What we learned about staying in an open air hotel was that when there was something weird looking on the floor, one should look up. I was horrified to notice one day a woman in front of her door taking pictures of the ceiling. At her feet was a pile of green mess. She saw me and said they were guarding her room. I looked up to see a group of bats. I grew up with bats always being in my back yard at dusk. I have no real reason to fear them but I am just fucking terrified they are going to fly into my hair and get tangled. I don’t even think it happens, I think it’s just an old wives tale, but they scare the shit out of me. The most hilarious freak out was when one night we were walking through the halls and a thousand, violent bangs started going off. There were flashes from outside and I announced that gang warfare had made it into the city. I was trying to run to the window to see if I could see (insert Mexican Gang something) in the streets when I realized the bangs had woken up the bats and because those poor little pips have razor sharp hearing, they also started erratically flying around trying to find the drug cartel gang fights as well. So the scene was basically us running down the halls crouched, screaming and me holding my hair trying to figure out where the gun shots were coming from. Must have looked pretty awesome to the guest walking down the hall who was not afraid of bats and had just come from enjoying the fireworks.
Our two big outings consisted of a tour day and what he have called the greatest sales pitch ever day. The tour we signed up for cost $20 each and was a full day, so I feel that should have signified how stellar it was going to be. The bus had about 12 people in it and 7 of them were a group of older (except one daughter) Canadian women. For 70% of the trip I thought they were Italians, I think they actually were Iranian. Most of this tour was outdoors and one portion was in the jungle and the youngest lady of the group got onto the bus with platform wedges. Her Mother was wearing shorts with tights that had lace designs over them. I wondered what they thought they had signed up for. The tour’s first stop was the city centre, where we saw the boardwalk, bought Alex a Don Draper sun hat, saw a church, a silver jewelry factory but most importantly, we bought fresh candied pecans which – I am telling you now, was the whole highlight of our trip. They were, I’m sure 1000 calories per pecan but fucking worth it. We would, later that week, walk 1.5 hours from our hotel to find this shop in order to buy more. This is how good they were.
At this point of the tour I was already losing my mind with the group of ladies. They would talk through the guy’s tour spiel and make the tour wait for them as they took 1000 photos of hilarious things. The most fun I had was watching the daughter gingerly walk on the cobble stone streets where I knew, at any moment, she would fall and twist her ankle, officially learning the lesson all young women learn at sometime – function before fashion. What really boggled my mind was when we got to the Tequila making place. The tour was supposed to be over half an hour at this location, but they shortened it to 15 minutes so they rushed us in, gave us a bunch of tequila shots and we left. What was very curious was how the women, who had come on this tequila making tour, did not drink. They did say how glad they were to get all the knowledge of how to make the tequila but would not imbibe. They were just so grateful for this knowledge though. The weird thing was we never got the tour, we received no knowledge of how to make tequila and I had no idea what these women were talking about. The last stop of the tour was where Predator was filmed. I have never seen Predator nor do I still really care too. The most fun was getting there on these tiny, windy roads looking over cliffs on this giant tour bus that would drop to it’s death at any second. Alex was particularly stressed by this event. Anyways, the whole jungle area had been turned into a zipline park, which I would have nothing to do with, so we had a drink and sat in the sun until we left. Most everyone on the bus was totally fed up with this loud group of women but the final straw was when we got back to the town and they stopped at our hotel for us to get off (only us, it was our hotel) and they all started to get up and block the aisle. I totally lost my shit, asked them to sit down in a firm teach voice and stormed off the bus. Remember when I said I am not good in groups of tourists? Yes, well we decided then we would not do another tour that trip because apparently I’m a rager.
The other outing we had was a visit to the sister hotel of ours which we thought was just a showing and a “but you could have had all this” visit, but it of course was a sales pitch for some weird travel membership that we never understood the benefits of. We spent the morning looking at two hotels both related to our hotel and they were amazing. There were young people at these hotels with beautiful beach bodies, so we knew by choosing our current hotel of mainly large, middle aged people we had made the right decision. At the end of seeing both hotels the young man who had been showing us around asked if he could do business with us. We still had no idea what he was selling. We tried to explain this to him but he insisted we just tell him if we could do business. Alex told him that he was selling us a mystery box, we had no idea what was inside it but he was asking us if we were interested. It was already getting comical until they took us to our sales room where they showed us a video of how cheap their travel prices were but still, not what the program was. Another guy came to offer us the sales pitch. After about half an hour, I stopped him and asked, what are the basics of the program and what was the price, this seems to be the only thing you haven’t told us. He skirted around the question and then asked us also if we had ever heard of the word inflation which we both thought was pretty great. After we gave him roughly what we spent on travel per year he spent the next 10 minutes dividing it in two. So here is your number, but now let’s divide it in two. We were like cool, but what the fuck is the fucking program. Anyways, long story short – we still had no idea what the program is, they were extremely insistent and we still, to this day, if we see a deal we yell, but divide it in two!!
The trip was great, we never over did it. We never got white girl drunk and never got too sun burnt. They were ramps next to every stair case (because of all the old people staying there) and by day three my brain was epically confused when approaching staircases as to which one to take or which one I was actually doing which was pretty funny because it led to me having anxiety every staircase we got to because I had already tripped going down the stairs about 5 times. I swear this was not the alcohol. I had a few margaritas but I decided my favourite drink was the WASPiest one, a Tom Collins. All the bartenders called it a Tom Columns. Trust me to go to Mexico and drink gin. We spent most days reading on the beach (I read Amy Schumer’s book only to get aggressively annoyed by the end that I was not her) and of course we played in the waves (where I was molested by a wave that took by bathing suit bottoms off and continually beached me and had me rolling around while I tried to hike them back up in front of a loaded beach). Yay Mexico!